Once the block is removed
The method I prefer is to take a long, skinny bladed shovel and dig out the dirt just to the side of the concrete exposing the side of the concrete block. Just remember to pile the dirt close to the hole as the dirt you remove will be used to re-pack the hole once the post and concrete block is removed from the ground. From the edge of the concrete, dig out about six (6") to eight (8") inches and down twenty-four (24") inches. This allows for a pocket as wide as the concrete block. If a piece or stump from the existing post is still in place, you can use it and start moving the concrete block back and forth using the new pocket space you just created. Once it is loose, you should be able to use your shovel or pry bar as a lever and lift the concrete block from the hole. Be careful and make sure you lift with your legs as the concrete block can weigh as much as eighty (80) pounds. If the existing post or post stump is no longer attached to the concrete, you should be able to use a pry bar or even your shovel to move the existing concrete block back and forth in a similar manner loosening it from its original placement. Once, the block is movable, use the same process as mentioned above but please be careful to use proper lifting techniques when removing the concrete. A doctors visit is not prescribed in this project.
Once the block is removed, use the dirt you removed from the excavation to fill in the six (6") to eight (8") inches you originally dug out. Be sure to pack the dirt solidly as it will provide the lateral support for the new post when it is in position. The concrete you use when you set the new post will provide plenty of support in addition to attaching the existing fence structure but the better you pack the dirt, the better the result. You should be left with a standard hole approximately twenty-four (24") inches deep and approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches wide.
From here, you should take your clam digger or post hole digger or if you do not have one, just use your shovel and dig out approximately two (2") inches at the bottom of the hole. Then add loose gravel in those two (2") inches for drainage to keep water away from the bottom of the post. If you do not have or did not purchase a bag of gravel when you purchased your replacement post and concrete, do not worry. The concrete has gravel in it and will work but the gravel does make the drainage more efficient. Once you have the base in place, it is time to install the replacement post.
Grab your replacement post and center it in the hole. If you have a helper, have them hold the post and make sure that it lines up correctly with the fence and the old post you just removed. Once you have it in the correct position, open an eighty (80) pound bag of Quickrete concrete and pour it dry into the hole. Make sure you are wearing eye protection and to cover your mouth so you do not inhale the concrete dust that typically spews out of the hole as you pour in the mixture. Pour all of the contents into the hole. Grab your garden hose or a bucket of water and start pouring water into the hole and make sure to pour around the new post in a circular pattern to make sure you get the whole top layer of the concrete wet. The water will begin to bubble as it starts seeping to the bottom. Continue to add water until it pools a bit. It will absorb through the mix. At this point, take your pry bar or a piece of rebar or even a sturdy stick and start poking the concrete mixture to help get the water to flow down to the bottom as well as remove the air bubbles that form. It is OK if the water pools a bit but don't make the mixture too wet as it will take longer to set.
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